If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You must register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. Registration is simple and free and removes most advertising. Login or Sign Up. Preventing and fixing a slipping drill press chuck. Have you ever chucked up that big bit, say a 3" Forstner bit, and without thinking just line up your hole, power up the drill press and start drilling away only to have the drill press bog down and end up with the chuck slipping, or even falling off the taper?
Well, the fix is plenty simple. First off. Avoid slipping the chuck at all. This means you need to make certain of the following. Your bits are good and sharp. A dull bit will grab the workpiece instead of cutting it. You'd bog down a V-8 engine with some of the bits I have seen people try to use on their dril presses. Your drill press is running at an appropriate speed for the bit in question. This is also a great opportunity to inspect and lubricate the chuck. Remove the chuck from the drill press taper shaft.
If it is already spinning, you should just be able to grab it and pull down to remove it. Thoroughly clean the chuck inside and out with a non depositing solvent such as Brake Parts cleaner, or rubbing alcohol. DO NOT use solvents on plastics! When cleaning the chuck, run the jaws in and out all the way cleaning as you go to clear any wood dust, dirt, grease, and other nasty debris that gets into drill press chucks. Fully clean the taper. Apply a dry lubricant to all surfaces where metal is supposed to slide against metal avoiding the contact areas where the jaws contact the bit, and where the chuck contacts the taper.
Fully retract the jaws. Place a flat and parallel sacrifical wooden piece on the drill press table.A drill press requires some occasional maintenance to ensure that it continues to run smoothly and drill precisely.
If you don't take care of your machine, it can eventually develop damaging rust on the table, run-out and wobble with the quill and spindle which drives the chuck of the drill pressand more. By checking a few key areas periodically, you can keep your unit running smoothly and drilling precisely. Most drill presses use a belt and pulley system for transferring power between the motor and the quill. The entire system is housed in a compartment within the head of the drill press.
Most drill presses come with a solid table, often made from cast iron. While such a table provides a very solid platform on which to work, it is also very susceptible to rust. You can clean the table much like you would a cast iron saw table, then protect it using a rust-resistant protectant, such as Boeshield T If you allow the rust to remain on the table, it can affect the ability to finish many fine hardwoods and even sanded plywood.
By keeping it clean, not only will your table last longer, but your projects will avoid damage from a rusted table. Wrenches Replacement electrical cord or switch if needed Replacement drive belt and pulley if needed Allen wrenches Rust-resistant metal protectant Rags. Check the power cord: Before removing the head cover, unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet, and check the condition of the power cord.
Make sure that there are no cracks in the insulation of the cord, and check to see that it is solidly connected to both the plug on the end of the cord and into the motor housing on the back of the drill press. If any damage is present, consider having the cord replaced.
Check the switch: While you're at it, check the condition of the switch on the front of the drill press. There should be no excessive play within the switch, and it should consistently and easily turn the motor on and off. As with the cord, if it is damaged, the switch should be replaced. Check the belt: With the electrical cord unplugged, open the head cover on top of the drill press.
Begin by visually inspecting the condition of the belt between the two pulleys. If the belt is worn or is displaying cracking or fraying, replace it with a new belt. Inspect the pulleys : Next, rotate the belt slightly on the pulleys and inspect each of the pulleys fore and aft for any damage or cracks. As with the belt, if a pulley is damaged, it is better to replace it than to continue to use a damaged part.
There are two predominant styles of drill presses: those with multiple pulleys fore and aft for controlling the speed of the chuckand those with a single pulley on the motor and quill shaft that employ a variable speed control.
In the case of the former, to adjust the speed at which you drillyou'll place the belt on different corresponding sets of pulleys. When you use a larger motor pulley with a smaller quill pulley, the drill chuck spins faster. Conversely, using a smaller motor pulley and a larger drive pulley results in a slower RPM rate for the chuck. Most units of this type will have a chart within the head cover that shows the RPM rate for each corresponding set of pulleys.
If your unit is a multi-pulley system, you should find a small set-screw on both the drive pulley and the quill pulley. Tighten each set screw with an Allen wrench to ensure that the pulleys are securely fastened.
Once you know that the pulleys and belt are in good working order, move on to the quill. Remove the chuck and set it aside for the moment. Grab onto the exposed lower end of the quill and move it laterally in any direction, checking for play between the quill and the quill tube of the drill press housing. A loose quill will cause some wobble of the chuck when the drill press is operating, which can cause imprecision.
This is especially problematic when using very clean drill bits such as a forstner bit or a sharp-pointed bit such as a spade or auger bit. If you find that your quill has some wobble, you should be able to tighten the mounting bolt that secures the quill tube into the motor housing with a wrench to reduce or even eliminate the wobble.
Then check the quill again for looseness before reinstalling the chuck. Read More.I have a number of drill chucks from drills salvaged from waste bins throughout the years.
Surprisingly the reason I get the chucks is most people don't know how to repair, replace, or rebuild a drill chuck.
Rebuilding a plain bearing drill chuck is not much different than replacing a bearing in an electric motor or the wheel spindle of your car.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. I have two basic keyed drill chucks; Multi Craft and Plain Bearing drill chucks.
Drill chucks where the gear teeth and the split ring nut is one piece, and the tin sleeve is a separate part, is a Multi Craft, like the Jacobs chucks on the left. Plain Bearing drill chucks are like the Jacobs chucks on the right where the gear teeth and sleeve are one piece, and the split ring nut is a separate part. The more common of the two drill chucks to rebuild are the Plain Bearing drill chucks. Most modern plain bearing drill chucks are easy to buy rebuild kits and sleeves for.
However few people rebuild or repair Multi Craft drill chucks, they are cheap, easy to replace, and you cannot get rebuild kits, so I am just going to dissemble and clean the Multi Craft drill chuck. A hydraulic press, bearing splitter, and brass spacers would be nice; you can even use a bearing puller to dissemble a plain bearing Jacobs chuck.
Wire brushes for cleaning rust and dirt off the parts; I used a 22 caliber brush from my gun cleaning kit, and a wire wheel on my grinder.
Since I have the spindle and arbors, I will be using a spindle to dissemble the Multi Craft drill chuck. Whether it is a male mount or a female mount plain bearing chuck; they disassemble in the same manner. Put the brass bushing over the jaws of the chuck to the body of the chuck and whack it with a hammer. The sleeve should come right off the chuck and the ring nut should fall out in two pieces. If the jaws do not slide out of the chuck with ease, use a pin punch to push the jaws out of the chuck body.
Use only soft wire brushes to clean the parts of the chuck; if you use sandpaper or files you can take the parts out of tolerance and this will ruin the chuck. After cleaning; inspect the parts, you are looking for chips out of the threads and excessive wear like belling. Belling is when the grip of the jaws are worn so the chuck will not hold a bit properly and the drill bit warbles.
Belling makes a characteristic bell shape in the jaws when the jaws are closed. Looking at the grip of the jaws, the grip of the jaws will be wider at one end then at the other. You can buy rebuild kits from Jacobs or other suppliers all you need is the information on the chuck.I salvage from peoples waste bins; this is how I get many of my power tools for free, and one of the most common power tools I get are drills.
How to Repair and Replace a Drill Press Chuck
Many of the power drills I get are good but for needing a minor repair, and one of the repairs needed is a damaged or jammed chuck, like the two drills I am about to repair. Weather it is for upgrading or repairing; replacing a drill chuck is one of the easiest repairs you can make on a drill when you know how. Many hardware stores have replacement chucks in stock. However there are a couple tricks of the trade to remember when replacing a drill chuck, and this Instructable is on these tricks of the trade.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Why is replacing a drill chuck necessary; most of the time the reason is neglect or abuse, but sometimes you may want to upgrade a drill.
Or you just want to switch to a keyless chuck. Here are some rules to keep your chuck in good shape and the damages breaking these rules can cause. Do not tighten or close the jaws of a keyless chuck with a monkey wrench, water pump pliers, or channel lock pliers, these tools will break or damage the chuck. Just use your hand to tighten or close the jaws of a keyless chuck, the chuck is made for that.
If you must have the tool in the chuck so tight that you need to use a tool on a keyless chuck, swap out the keyless chuck for a keyed chuck, it is easy enough. A screwdriver to remove the setscrew or retaining screw; most of the time a standard, however some have Phillips setscrews, and some newer drills have a Torx screw for the setscrew. If you work on as many power drills as I do you will find yourself faced with a number of different drill chucks.
The most common chucks take four different chuck keys. I have an old broken drill with a good chuck I can use to make this repair; all I need to do is remove the chuck from the drill. Removing the chuck can be a bit of a challenge; while the drill is running the chuck and setscrew are made to tighten onto the spindle, this makes them very tight to the spindle.
Open the chuck jaws until they are fully retracted so you can remove the setscrew. The setscrew is inside the mouth of the chuck. With the drill pointing at you turn the setscrew clockwise to screw the setscrew out of the spindle.If your chuck is stuck open or closed, inspect these parts: the drill chuck, key, gear case and chuck screw. No need to hire a costly service when you can do it yourself with the help of our repair experts.
Always reference your owner's manual for specific information on your model. Shopping Cart. Submit Search. Sign in Sign in with Password. Cart Shopping Cart 0 item s in your cart. Restore a saved shopping cart. Cordless Drill. We're open and continuing to ship packages. Cordless Drill: Chuck is Stuck Open or Closed If your chuck is stuck open or closed, inspect these parts: the drill chuck, key, gear case and chuck screw.
The drill chuck holds the drill bit in place with jaws that firmly clamp down on it. If the drill chuck is seized open, or closed, it will need to be repaired. If it is seized closed, you can release the jaws with channel lock pliers. With the drill bit removed, close the chuck and inspect the jaws for alignment. If they are not even at the tip, you can gently tap them in place with a hammer to realign. This should solve the problem.
However, if the problem continues, replace the drill chuck. If the chuck is stuck open, check that the screw inside the drill chuck is fasten tight. If it is loose, it can prevent movement of the teeth. To solve this problem, insert the proper screwdriver in the drill chuck and tighten. Remember, this screw is reversed thread so turn it counter clockwise to tighten. If you determine that the drill chuck needs to be replaced to solve this problem, begin by inserting the proper screwdriver into the chuck to remove the screw at the bottom.
Snug the chuck against the screwdriver and loosen by turning it clockwise this is reversed thread. Once you have broken the tightness of the screw, loosen the chuck and continue to remove the screw.
With the screw removed, insert a big allen key in the chuck and tighten firmly. Now, insert a pipe over the allen key for leverage and turn counter clockwise to loosen the chuck. A second method is to hit the allen key quickly with a hammer to loosen. Once loosened, continue to remove from the spindle.
Install the new drill chuck by threading it on the spindle and then insert the allen key and tighten the chuck on the key. Use the key to tighten the drill chuck on the drill, then loosen the drill chuck and remove the allen key. Insert the screwdriver inside the drill chuck to tighten the chuck screw, remembering that the screw is reversed thread.
Find your Chucks here. If the gears are worn down, this would cause this symptom. To replace the gear case, first remove the end cap on the drill and then release the brush springs. Insert a screwdriver into the drill chuck and remove the screw by turning it clockwise, remembering it is reversed thread.Most drill chucks come off their drills using normal chuck removal methods, like the chuck removal steps we offer in our article, " How to Remove a Drill Chuck.
However, drill chucks can be difficult to remove for a number reasons that require an extra trick or two to get the job done. The steps and suggestions below explain how to remove keyless drill chucks from drills with broken gear boxes. We also explain how to remove sticky chuck screws.
See this article's repair video for a professional demonstration! Our example drill in this article came into the shop with its gearbox already broken. In cases like these, drill chucks usually come off the drill with the arbor shaft and chuck collar still attached to the chuck.
The first step to remove the chuck then is to first take its collar off. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Getting that snap ring out will allow the chuck collar to pop off when we press it off of the chuck. Flatten the arbor shaft with a grinder and grinding wheel. The arbor shaft must be placed into a vise in order to remove the chuck screw. The shaft will have to be made flat on at least two sides to accommodate the vise.
Be careful to avoid touching the arbor shaft while it is still hot.
Unscrewing the chuck is easy with the help of a "cheater bar. Follow the professional repair tips below for to remove a stuck chuck screw. Tip 1- Heat the arbor shaft. Use a blowtorch on the arbor shaft to loosen up the loctite on the chuck screw.
This is the best way to loosen the screw in most cases. Really tough chuck screws may require more than one heating. Tip 2- Use a wrench for leverage. If the screwdriver you're using to turn the chuck screw has a square shaft, you can attach a small wrench to it for some extra leverage. Tip 3- Strike the chuck screw with a screwdriver and hammer. Carefully position your screwdriver on the chuck screw and gently strike its end with a hammer to loosen the screw's loctite bond.
This should be considered a last-resort method since it risks destroying the chuck if done incorrectly. To get started with your home tool repair, visit our Drill Parts page to find your drill model's replacement drill chuck.
We're dedicated here at eReplacementParts. Visit us again for professional tips that will get you past the snags in your own repairs! Wish I seen this first but I found the only thing that worked in my case was a blowtorch and quench.
By toolrepair eReplacementParts. More by the author:. Broken gearboxes and sticky chuck screws can make removing a drill chuck difficult. This article explains the tricks you need to overcome these common repair setbacks. How to Separate a Chuck Collar from a Drill Chuck Our example drill in this article came into the shop with its gearbox already broken. Add Teacher Note.Cordless Drill Chuck Removal
What is the best method to go about adjusting the chuck itself? If you have a dial-indicator to check alignment, you can often fix it with a couple of well placed smacks, or worst case - popping the chuck out and re-sitting it to fix the alignment issues.
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How to Repair and Replace a Drill Press Chuck
How do I fix chuck wobble in my drill press? Ask Question. Asked 3 years, 6 months ago. Active 3 years, 6 months ago. Viewed 10k times. Jed Daniels Jed Daniels 1 1 silver badge 5 5 bronze badges. What brand and model is your drill press? There are a couple different types of quill mechanism and ways the chuck is attached.
I meant to put a reply yesterday but DaveSmylie has you covered I think. Active Oldest Votes.
Drill Chuck Replacement
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